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Merzbacher Travel.

Convinced of the futility of attempting to overcome a Marble Wall, he decided to try his luck from valley Saryjaz river, over which the Khan-Tengri flaunts exactly the same as above Bayankol.
After ascending one of the peaks in the upper reaches of the glacier Semenova, he saw the same glacial Cirque of Bayankol towering over him with a Marble Wall. "We must take the right," he decided, going to neighboring Mushketov glacier, located to the South.
And again made a mistake. An evil fate pursued climbers or evil spirits of the mountain didn't want to give out his secret. Khan Tengri again slipped from the eyes of a traveler. Already at the top of one of the peaks of the four climbers avalanche swept away; flying 200 meters, they escaped, accidentally hitting the ice crack.
Scared Merzbacher companions refused to go further, but from solving the mystery of Khan Tengri were separated with only some two hundred metres. Approaching autumn, and Merzbacher through Muzarsky pass has gone to warmer Kashgar.
Next year, Merzbacher heard the voice of reason, correctly reasoning that Khan Tengri to be found in the valley of Inylchek, which has already been scouted three years ago by Borghese and his companions. 
With the greatest difficulty, cutting steps in the ice, the expedition went to the pass Tuz, leading through the ridge of the Saryjaz river in Inylchek valley. They could see the Grand panorama. Directly before them was a giant mountain.
Moving through the valley, the expedition soon came to road fork of valley. The glaciers were two: North and South branch on both sides skirted giant ridge (in Soviet times it was called the ridge of Stalin, and later renamed the name of Tengri-Tag).
The Merzbacher chosed the Northern gorge. The horses had to leave because no food. Everywhere stretched the sea of stone, rocks and ice. After the caravan ran into the lake, completely blocking the gorge. Beautiful yet sinister, it shone with cold beauty.
White swans on the greenish water was floating ice Bergs calved from the edge of the glacier creeps. The Merzbacher ascended to near the top, and he finally was lucky, he saw Khan Tengri.
"So the mountain can be approached by the southern branch of the glacier," he knew the traveler. Had to hurry the food stocks ran out. Again began the hard work breaking stone rubble, crevasses and lakes of melt water. After half a dozen kilometers, hungry porters stood up, refusing to go further. 
Taking with him two Tyrolean guides, Merzbacher at a fast pace and the light continued on. Five hours, straining every nerve, were travelers. The guides were weary and demanded to turn back. Had started snowing. A little more and the visibility will be absolutely zero.
Exhausted travelers rounded the next rocky ledge and their eyes appeared the whole giant mountain from the bottom to the top. Once it became clear the mystery of Khan-Tengri and the reason that mountain've been looking for.
She was in a separate ridge which separates the branches of the glacier and did not belong to the upper Bayankol, no Saragosa, where it first tried to detect. The Merzbacher before uninterruptedly started to snow heavily, managed to take photos that later became famous and made an outline of the ridges, which have long been used by geographers and travelers. Despite its inaccuracy, Merzbacher is rightly considered a pioneer of the location of Khan Tengri, deciding the main mystery of the mountain.
For works for the benefit of science of the Russian Geographical society in 1908, presented to G. Merzbacher gold medal of a name of P. P. Semenov - Tien-Shanskiy. Died Merzbacher in April 1926 at the age of 83.

Peak the Marble Wall (Kazakhstan).The scheme of ridges Tien-Shan, on Merzbacher.Lake Merzbaсher, kind from the helicopter.Glacier Baynkol.Ices of lake Merzbaсher.Glade Merzbacher, the left board of a moraine of a glacier Southern Inylchek.

Alexander Grigorevich Lukhtanov. «Sketches on Seven-rivers».