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Climbing routes to Khan Tengri Peak.

Classic route to Khan Tengri Peak.

“We walk alone in an empty and dark world,
Cold whiteness fades.
But through the whirlwind, with an intermittent dotted line,
The climbing chain is visible!

There is light at home and a map in the corner.
Warm. The window is shuttered.
A red chain winds across the map,
Crossing out the white spot!

Syrym Kuderin. "Photo".

 

Climbing Khan Tengri Peak from Southern Inylchek glacier.

Climbing routes from north to Khan Tengri Peak:

The Northern Inylchek glacier is the most popular among climbers, firstly, it offers a beautiful view of the regular Khan Tengri pyramid, it was from Northern Inylchek that the first ascent of Khan Tengri was made, the route is now considered a classic one.
The northern side of Khan Tengri is steeper than the southern side, but is the safest in terms of ice collapses and avalanches.

1. Khan-Tengri along the North-Eastern edge of the shoulder of Chapaev Peak, 5A.
2. Khan-Tengri along the Eastern buttress of the Northern ridge, 5B (Benkin, 75).
3. Khan-Tengri along the Eastern buttress of the Northern Wall, 6A (Khudyakov, 70).
4. Khan-Tengri along the right Eastern buttress of the Northern Wall, 6A.
5. Khan-Tengri along the left buttress of the center of the Northern Wall, 6A.
6. Khan-Tengri along the Northern Ridge, 5B (Studenin, 68).
3. Khan-Tengri along the Northern Ridge, 5B (Kuzmin, 64).
4. Khan-Tengri in the center of the Northern Wall, 6A (Myslovsky, 74).
5. Khan-Tengri on the right side of the Northern wall, 6A.
6. Khan-Tengri in the center of the Northern Wall, 6A (Myslovsky, 74).
7. Khan-Tengri in the center of the Northern Wall, 6A (Studenin, 74).
8. Khan-Tengri along the left buttress of the center of the Northern Wall, 6A.
9. Khan-Tengri on the right side of the Northern Wall, 6A.
10. Khan-Tengri on the left side of the Northern Wall, 6A.
11. Khan-Tengri in the center of the Northern Wall, 6A (Koroteev, 86).

Climbing routes from west, south, east to Khan Tengri peak:

1. Khan-Tengri along the South-Western slope, 5A.
2. Khan-Tengri along the North-Eastern edge of the shoulder of Chapaev Peak, 5A.
5. Khan-Tengri along the left side of the South-Western bastion and the South-Western edge, 5B.
6. Khan-Tengri along the South-Western slope and the left side of the South-Western ridge, 5B.
7. Khan-Tengri along the buttress of the Eastern wall and the South-Eastern ridge, 5B.
8. Khan-Tengri along the Eastern buttress of the Northern ridge, 5B (Benkin, 75).
9. Khan-Tengri along the Eastern buttress of the Northern Wall, 6A (Khudyakov, 70).
10. Khan-Tengri along the right Eastern buttress of the Northern wall, 6A.
11. Khan-Tengri along the South Wall, 6A.
12. Khan-Tengri along the South-Western buttress of the South-Western ridge, 6A.
13. Khan-Tengri in the center of the Eastern Wall, 6A (Darmin, 88).
14. Khan-Tengri on the right side of the Eastern Wall, 6A.
15. Khan-Tengri in the center of the Eastern Wall, 6A (Shustrov, 87).

Authority:
http://wiki.risk.ru/index.php/%D0%A5%D0%B0%D0%BD-%D0%A2%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B8

 Photos by
Alexander Petrov.